Are you done yet?


Scarecrow seems to be my biggest motivator lately!

He was watching very intently from the console as I was doing some wiring on the 70 today

ScarecrowIs ReadyToGo

I have been playing catch up the last couple of days. Trying to figure out where I left off in the fall. I have a good idea where I am in the project now.

Scarecrow was pretty much on my shoulder the whole time I was working under the dash. I guess he is my quality monitor. I guess he thinks I need to get finished with the wiring ASAP! I did get a major portion of the dash wiring completed. All the under-dash gauge and gauge lighting wiring is done. Along with the engine gauge feeds. The stop light switch is plumbed. As is the turn signal switch.

The rear harness is in and now it is a matter of connecting the front and back turn signals in. As far as the running lights, sport lights and headlights they are all being plumbed to come on all at the same time. On or Off! That’s it! And I am opting out of high beams all together.  When was the last time you used them? I don’t. So this is easy.

So, after a day of writhing around on my back under the dash of the 70 I took a break and went out for a cruise on Woodward in the 65. It was about 4ish so Woodward was packed with rush hour traffic. But no biggie! I’ve done the Dream Cruise a time or two! So a nice go round from here at 9 mile up to 16 Mile and back down to 9 mile and I was relaxed and the 65 got some exercise.

Now is Captain Morgan time! A bit of Captain Morgan, some peanuts and a big bag of Eric Johnson on the music box. This is nice!

More later! See ya!



Taming the bag of snakes! 70 Mustang wiring


Lots of progress! That’s a good thing!

A bit of backtracking was needed but it was for the better

This last week has been a productive one on the 70 wiring. I have attacked it in earnest and it is coming around quickly. And the tie-wraps are flying! And the crimpers are getting a workout. As are my hands. I did have to do some layout backtracking basically to simplify the wiring. since I am not using any of the multi-function factory switches that wiring can all go away.

I am feeding my new panel constant and switched hot directly. The master shut-off is in the trunk with the battery. Right now I am getting all the wiring logistically set in place and clamped down. Like I said earlier I was able to eliminate a bunch of previously wired segments because they are no longer needed. so getting it all directed and snugged up is really not that big a chore. Just a bit of standing on your head under the dash.

One recent decision was to not install a 130 amp alternator. Way too much overkill. So I tested and with a successful check-up I re-purposed the original 45 amp Autolite unit. A new solid state voltage regulator and a newly fabbed harness got it all plumbed in and we are good to go. The last segment redo is the  front light harness with all the lights tied in together. A small departure from being wired into a full featured headlight switch.  And the turn signals are really pretty straight forward. The tail harness is also done. And with the new 3 light taillight units the separate brake and turn wiring is a snap. The new fuel sender line is in that bundle also.

My switch panel

Switch Panel

Switch Panel

The basics are there but the primary functions are now simply ON or OFF. My control panel has just 5 switches and one start button.The start button has it’s own toggle switch [WHITE] to enable it. The ignition switch [RED] provides power to the ignition system only. The headlight switch [GREEN] triggers not just headlights but also all the markers and the sport lights all at once. There is no high beam feature. How often do you actually use your high beans? Really! The heater switch [YELLOW] fires the fan at medium speed. The wipers [PURPLE] are also set for medium speed with no park feature. Where they land is where they land! Simple but functional!

The Dash Panel

Now that the dash unit is fabbed and assembled it is a bit easier to deal with, The dash is only a tach, a speedo and a gas gauge. It does have a single ON/OFF/ON switch for the turn signals.and a 12 volt power port. As a side note I did go a bit thin on the base aluminum material so it is not as stable as I would like it to be but I will upgrade it to some thicker gauge stock when it is all up and running. An easy fix.

The Gauge Cluster

The oil / water / voltage gauge cluster that sits in the bottom of the dash in the center has its own harness. and I will tie it in as soon as I get the rest of the harness set. It just needs a gauge power feed, a lamp feed and the two sensor wires that go to the oil and water senders on the motor.

In conclusion

A lot of progress but some more work to do! But I am hanging with it till I get it all done! Stay tuned!


More 70 wiring progress


I finished the trunk / rear light harness

Rear Harness

It was a bit of work with all the new lamps involved but after adding a couple of two-pin connects on each lamp housing I was then able to finish the interconnect wiring and the primary pigtail bullet hookups. I still have to wrap and secure the harness but the big part is done.

Front Harness

Now I can finish up the front light segment. Which will be easier since I will be using the Mach-1 grille mounted sport lamps as my front running lights which leaves the lower turn signals to be just turn signals. And for now at least we are simply running low beams on the headlight system so it will simplify the headlight wiring to an on / off scenario.

More to come! Stay Tuned!

Building the 70 Mustang rear light harness


Building the new rear light harness

All laid out and ready for assembly

During the last few days of outstandingly nice weather I got energetic and tackled the rewiring of the rear lights in the 70. And it was very productive. Since the taillight themselves were upgraded with a 3-bulb setup on each side I decided to take advantage of it and re-function the taillights. By re-function I mean rewire them to use 2 of the 3 for stop and the remaining 1 for the turn and run as original. Bigger badder taillights is the result. And I threw in a new gas gauge feed because it was headed that way!

After building a new multi-wire feed bundle Ii threaded the wiring following the factory path. Through the kick panel, down to the door channel an up over the rear wheel house and into the trunk. It gets a bit tedious under the rear window panel but easy enough. Then it was a simple project to connect all the lamp pigtails ,including the side markers and license plate, to get the logistics right. So later today I will solder up and finalize all the pieces parts into a complete harness.

I have a partial day at the store so I can rest my hands and let them recover so I can tackle the soldering job this afternoon.  Stay Tuned

The new iEquus gauges are here and ready to get installed


Well… kinda ….maybe…. sorta

In the stand alone panel and waiting for a home


I selected a small a variety of iEquus gauges for this project. They actually look pretty nice with the white face and  a brushed aluminum trim ring. I got them all at my O’Reilly store. I work there so it makes it nice. A Trio of he big 2 5/8″ white face electrical gauges for the water temp, oil pressure and voltmeter. Since the gas gauge is only available in 2″ I have a matching white face version of that. The tach and speedo are the big guys. The only piece of this puzzle I had to get elsewhere was the three hole 2 5/8 gauge panel. I could have ordered it through the store but I was able to get the same iEquus panel online for half he price!

new iEquus gauges

new iEquus gauges

A small side note: The speedo is actually a dummy from one of our displays. For my needs the tach is sufficient. But as long as the illusion exists we let it be.


First I have to fabricate the harness for the electrical gauge senders and the backlight hookup. Not a real biggie just a project. With all the big 2 5/8 gauges in a single standalone panel that harness should be pretty straight forward.  A to B. With just a trio of long feeds [oil, water, and volts] to the engine. And since there will be no dimmer on the dash gauges it will be even simpler.

Now the new custom dash will be pretty easy also. I have the panel pattern fabricated and I am fitting the 3 gauges into their new homes.There is a bit of finagling to do around a couple of sub braces The dash insert will have a big tach, a big speedo [a dummy actually] and a 2″ fuel gauge. That’s it for gauges. A couple of small LED turn signal indicators and we are good to go

09-13-15 UPDATE

Gauge harness and hood support

I have the gauge sub-harness complete. The primary wiring for the panel is pretty redundant. All get fed by a hot, all get a ground, the lighting is the same a hot and ground. The only external feeds are for the oil pressure sender and the water temp sender. I did separate the leads for the gauge back lighting so it could be triggered by the light switch. So a simple 6 wire hookup handles it all.  It looks like the gauges will reside in the middle of the dash under the new switch panel. Easy to see  and out of the way.

And while I was up and at it today I fabricated a simple swing down hood support. I got tired of the ole stick on the core support trick. A single hole in the front core support filled with an support OEM grommet served as the base and I trimmed an adaptable hood support rod to length. A rubber cap goes on the end. The only missing piece is a lip to hold it in place when it is down.

Busy day but productive! More to come.


Lighting up the hitch


I spent the day TS the 7 pin trailer hookup

And I made some interesting discoveries. After not getting any primary power and ground to the 7 pin I got out the factory manuals and did some digging. The wires were at the rear connector but DOA. According to the wiring diagrams there was supposed to be a three-wire power umbilical that originated at the front power box and went to the back. And there was also supposed to be an inline fuse assembly 12 inches from the firewall. After a bit of looking around I found no such thing. Now I know why it was dead. So where did the cable go?

This is where it got silly. I was rummaging around in the power box and managed to drop a relay down into the fender cavity. In my attempts to retrieve the relay I was reaching down into the fender area and low and behold I came up with a weatherproof fuse assembly attached to a 3 wire umbilical! And it appeared to be down there for a while. The missing power cable was no longer missing!

And a bonus find! I came up with what looked to be the 3-wire male end of a household extension cord! What? It turns out that it is the plug-in for the block mounted oil heater on the diesel. Apparently it was not used very often, if at all. Now it is up where it can be used if need be.

That cabling was the major 12 volt feed, electric brake feed and primary ground for the 7 pin connection. At some point for some unknown reason  it was cut loose at the box. And dropped into the fender well area. After re-terminating the wiring and reattaching them where they belonged I had full power to the rear assembly! Isn’t that amazing! Not really but good.

With that done I can now finish up the setting of the cables going to the trailer connecter. I had previously purchased a replacement head for the factory cable that was a multi-tow hook up that has both the 4-pin and 7-pin hookups on one faceplate. It simply plugs into the factory connector in place of the factory port and sets in the same bracket. Lots more convenient than adapters.

Done! Done and Done!